Monday, November 12, 2012

Toulouse to Barcelona across the Pyrenees Sept 2012

On Sunday September 16 th five elderly cyclists set off from Dublin airport to cross the Pyrenees starting in Toulouse and finishing in  Barcelona.., For the first time in the Wheelberrys history these robust but "greying" cyclists had only touring bikes and all their needs for the days ahead were carried in panniers , no support vehicles , no back up just themselves and the open roads . These intrepid pioneers were Jerome , Dave , Tony . John and Bernard .   Johns detailed account of the trip is below . My summary is at the end .
              Bernard , Dave , Jerome , Tony and John
 
Sunday  16 September 2012.  Day 1 

Check in at Dublin Airport Terminal 2 . The staff were particularly helpful with the bikes. The pannier weigh-in showed a clear winner; Jerome at 19 kg. The other weights were around 14  kg., with Tony lightest at 12.5 kg. Jerome was actually carrying the 2 spare tyres and a rucksack . 

The reconstruction of the bikes took longer than anticipated.  We all had difficulty putting on the attachment for the handlebar bag .  Also great difficulty getting out of the airport.  We were on a busy main road and  a  motorway for a short distance. We all had an Irish tricolour  on  the back of our bicycles.  This was to let the motorway traffic know that the eegits who were on the hard shoulder, or trying to cross busy traffic lanes, were from Ireland.  However, over the course of the week, we realised that most people assumed we were Italians. 
 
We did find the cycle route along by the east side of the river Garonne, eventually, as planned, and got to the south side of Toulouse.  We then went onto the main road; just as well as there were encampments of homeless people along the route by the river. 

Just as light was fading, we reached our destination, a small B&B on the southerly outskirts of Eaunes.  After a quick wash, we got a taxi to a Spanish restaurant, which we were led to believe was only 2 km away.  But in fact it was 12 km away.  The taxi driver seemed to know the landlady, and charged 40 euro to take us there, and 45 to bring us back. The meal was very overpriced and of the “neuvo cuisine”type ,not really what 5 very hungry cyclist needed. 

Toulouse airport - Eaunes.

Distance cycled: 32.62 km.

Elevation gain:  157 m

Stay : Hotel Particulier Belair, Eaunes.

Dinner: La  Commanderie,  Saint Sulpice-sur-Leze

 

Monday 17 September 2012.  Day 2. 

Eaunes  -  Ax Les Thermes. 

After breakfast served outside (chilly), we set off southwards.  Just before our stop in Saverdun we passed an older couple on bicycles with panniers.  While  having coffee and chocolate croissants, (special offer for five), we met them again:  a retired couple from Dulwich in London, who were cycling to their holiday home in Perpignon.  They travelled impressively  lightly.  He had only 2 panniers, she only one.  They had   got a ferry to St. Malo and were on day 13, almost finished.  They spend two months in spring and two months in the autumn in Perpignon, and he had always wanted to cycle down through France

Lunch was at an  outside table at a  restaurant in the town square in Pamiers.  An excellent lunch, spaghetti carbonara, with a raw egg yolk in its shell, which one mixes with  the hot spaghetti oneself.  The first time I'd seen it. 

After lunch, we continued south to Foix, and then on toTarascon, all the time following the river Ariege, ( a 164 km. long tributary of the Garonne. The river gives it’s name to this Department- until Napoleon’s decree, it was known as the country of Foix). We continued  a slow and steady ascent to Ax Les Thermes. Our hotel was  on the hill going south out of town.  In the centre of the town there are  sulphurous hot springs, from which the town gets its name ( Ax, from Latin aqua, meaning water;   French thermes  meaning hot springs).  The springs in  the centre of town are Le Bassin  des Ladres, ( leper’s pond), where the water temperature is 77°C.  I visited them on Tuesday morning before breakfast.  I took some exercise in an attempt to relieve my indigestion and heartburn, which I had all night after the dinner:   the set meal , which  was included in the price, and Bernard , quite rightly, turned up his nose at the main course, which was  warmish/cold  pork and hottish slimy ice.   
                        Typical morning coffee stop
Lunch:  Pamiers.

Distance cycled 113.15 km.

Elevation gain 870 m.

Morning coffee break : Saverdun.

Stay Hotel La Grande Cordee, Ax Les Thermes.

Dinner:  in hotel, including in price, set meal.(yuck)
 

Tuesday 18 September 2012.  Day 3.

Ax  Les Tharmes - Alp, via Andorra. 

After breakfast we set off southwards, continuing our climb  towards Andorra.  One of the main topics of conversation was whether we would take the tunnel or not.  This was a fruitless discussion, because bicycles are banned from the tunnels, and the main   tunnels around here are peage only.  We had a slow steady climb to coffee at   L’Hospitalet-pres-l’Andorra. I noticed many  stray flowers, including some sunflowers, growing   by the side of the road, especially near one lay by .  The road was busy, especially after coffee, on our way to Pas de la Casa, the destination it seemed of  most traffic.  This town was gaudy, loud, and unattractive, lots of people people buying their duty-free.  After lunch we went back on our tracks ( a welcomed  descent)   until we took a right-hand turn to start the climb  to the Col de Puymorens  (1920 metres), which we all thought was shorter and easier than the morning climb.  Interestingly, my Garmin  measured the Col de Puymorens at 1929 m.  From the top of this Col   we had a   great   downhill ride to Alp.  This was a very nice town.  When we reached   the hotel it was open, but there was no one there.  After searching and calling downstairs, we phoned the number on the sign on the entrance door, and five minutes later the woman came to give us our keys and book us in.  This reminded me of a NAMA hotel: great   fixtures and fittings, but no one there!  We had   drinks in 2   different bars before   dinner in the restaurant next to the hotel.  Much of this   town seemed to have had a makeover recently, with many new   apartments built around the edge of town.  This hotel had the best  laundry room and drying room that we used on this trip. 

          Jerome looking very pleased with himself 
            The long climb to Andorra

Distance cycled: 76.14 km.
 
Elevation gain: 1604 m.

Morning coffee:  L’Hospitalet-pres-l’Andorra.

Lunch: El Pas de la Casa, Andorra.

Afternoon break:  Puigcerda, , just inside the Spanish border, next to Bourg -Madame, which is on the French  ( other)  side of the river.

Stay:  Hotel Jaume, Alp 17538, Spain.

Dinner: restaurant on first-floor across the road from the hotel.

 

Wednesday,  19 September 2012.  Day 4.

Alp - Ripoll. 

After breakfast we took care to find the correct route out of town, towards the   ski resort of  Super Molina , beyond  La Molina.  On our way a number of cyclists passed us; they were mainly American and Canadian (approximately 14 of them) travelling with a professional cycling holiday organiser called Backroads.com.  We spoke to some of them as they passed: a regular question was ‘are you camping’, referring to our fully laden panniers !  After coffee in La Molina, at the same café   as the Americans, Dave realised that he had left his handlebar bag in the cafe, so he had to return for it.  We waited close to some newly built very smart apartment blocks built for the ski season. 

We continued up  the long drag to the Col de la Creueta (1888 m), at the top of which we met some of the backroads.com crew again.  We were above the clouds, and descended initially through heavy mist/cloud.  Lunch was in Castellar de N’Hug, in the Bar-Restaurant El Celler de Rosa Subira, where a very friendly and helpful owner (or more correctly perhaps owner’s husband) gives us a great meal .  He reminded me Renee  in ‘Allo, ‘Allo.  His wife kept a close eye on our bicycles, while we ate lunch in the first-floor restaurant. 

We had entered the small town from the bottom rather than the top (silly), and we left the same way ( much more silly),   since we ignored the directions of Renee, and took the road to La Pobla de Lillet rather than the more easterly and direct route via Montgrony.  I blame the excessive wine and beer that the pilot Bernard had at lunch. 

This minor error meant that we had the bonus of climbing the Coll de Merolla (1090 m), after which we  passed the road on our right that we had meant to take.  We went to Campdevenol, before we took a  right  and turned south onto the busy main road to Ripoll.  The way into   this town was quite bleak- disused factories on our right, with one particularly poor-looking two-storey housing area on our left, opposite the factory. 

"Rene "and his wife, the best lunch of the tour
 
 
We had a beer at the table on the pavement at   the hotel before we checked in.  We met in the hotel bar before dinner, where we met a Swiss salesman who sells   flexible drive shafts.  Dinner   was in a pizzeria in the centre of town.  I was in a single room, with a view of a large castle/tower house, with the Catalan flag flying proudly.  The flag was taken down at night, but   was put up again for 8 a.m. the next morning. 

Distance cycled : 68.2 km.

Elevation gain: 1179 m.

Morning coffee:  La Molina.

Lunch:  Castellar de N’Hug

Stay:  Hotel La Trobada, Ripoll

Dinner: Pizzeria.
 

Thursday the 20th of September 2012, Day  5 

Ripoll -Manresa.

Just out of Ripoll Tony got a phone call to say that his uncle had died.  We continued on very interesting countryside, (saw cows and horses with bells) through the district of Les Llosses, until we reached the town of Borreda for morning cafe con leche.  We sat outside the village cafe/general store.  It is surprising how many people were inside sitting at the back.  The shop at the front sold an amazing range of goods.  The Catalan flag was on some balconies facing onto the square.  I noticed yet again how many very old and/or invalided people there are in small towns and villages, with a younger helper, a relative usually I presume. 

On the way to Berga, where we stopped for lunch, we passed a large reservoir at Vilada, at the River El Llobregat. Lunch was at a restaurant on the main street, on the decking platform outside the restaurant. 

Not for the first time, we had some difficulty finding the correct minor road out of town.  A man in the small van saw our prevarication; he  turned round, and pointed in the right direction  (he  too does some bicycle touring, and knew how difficult it can be).  This act of kindness was greatly appreciated.  The afternoon’s cycle was difficult; the map we had showed the minor road merge with the motorway at many points. At one stage we cycled down into a very run down housing estate; time for a hasty retreat! We met three other very helpful people during our “where the hell are we “afternoon .
 
The first was at Navas, where an elderly man on a quad bike guided us through the town to get out onto the right road.
The second  just South of Balsareny, a man in a 4x4 who we asked for directions  led us on a dirt track, which  connected  with  the road  that we needed.
 
And Finally in Berga, where we stopped at a fire station for directions.  A firemen in a red ‘Bomber’ jeep  guided us ( at speed ; he was clearly not used , or more likely resentful for being instructed,  to guiding elderly gents on fully laden touring bikes)  through heavy traffic and a maze of roads towards our hotel.  Before reaching the hotel we were met by the hotel owner on a motorbike; we followed him for the final few hundred yards.  The hotel was in an odd location :  behind large BMW car dealerships, and was described on the Internet  as a country house, but it clearly was a country house that had long been overtaken and surrounded  by the expanding town.  But it was very difficult to find, even for the fireman, who had to phone up the hotel to find directions.  Luckily, there wasn't a fire there while we were present!  The only other occupants were some Russians. 
 
The Hotel we needed help to find,clearly a country house some time ago

Distance cycled:100.53 km.

Elevation gain: 1160 m.

Morning  coffee : Borreda

Lunch: Berga.

Stay : Turo de la Torre, Manresa.

Dinner in the hotel. 
 

Friday 21, September 2012, day  6. 

Manresa - Barcelona. 

Given the difficulty that we had on Thursday evening getting it to Manresa, we were apprehensive about getting out of it on Friday morning, and true to form,  it proved quite a challenge.  We initially headed south west in the direction of Montserrat, but we then veered east words.  At El Bures we joined the busy road carriageway southwards.  There were two lanes in each carriageway, and we were able to cycle on the hard shoulder, but the traffic passed us at great speed on.  We attempted to get off the dual carriageway when  we had our morning coffee break at the truckers stop.  Before our break  we passed  a scantily clad young woman sunning herself on the hard shoulder; we passed another such  hitchhiker after our stop.  We decided that we needed to keep heading south, rather than veering  east at this point, so we returned to the busy hard shoulder, after passing through Monistrol de Montserrat, from where we could see the great monastery  perched high on a mountainside. 

We had lunch in Abrera:  a drink and a sandwich on a pavement table next to a good fish shop.  We had been refused service at a previous restaurant, where we requested to sit inside but we wanted to sit outside so that we could  keep an eye on our bikes.  The waitress chose not to serve us if we sat outside , it was too far to carry the food.

Leaving Abrera, we went through big industrial estates, including going past the large SEAT Sport   car factory.  All this was to avoid the A2, Autovia del Nord-est, to which all the signposts kept directing us.  Again, we had difficulty finding the bicycle friendly roads.  At one bus stop, outside a large mental hospital, an elderly man guided us to an underpass.  This had steps on both sides and was difficult to negotiate.  We then stopped at a petrol station, where we were eventually given the directions to the route we wanted. 

It remained very difficult to stay on bicycle-friendly roads, and we were due to meet a truck in Barcelona port at 6 p.m. to load our bikes for home.
 
At Martorell, after cycling approximately 55 km, we passed a railway station, and someone had the bright idea to get the train for the final 25 km into Barcelona.  For the princely sum of 3.60 euro each, we got the commuter train to Placa d’Espanya in the centre of Barcelona.  At both stations there were lifts, which could take one bike and cyclist at the time.  Emerging from the Metro station at Placa d’Espanya , after much prevarication, and a trip to a tourist booth, we found the Gran Via de les Corts Catalans, at the end of which we stopped, unloaded and rearranged our panniers, to get ready for collection, and waited and waited and waited..  After a number of three-way phone calls between us, Ireland, and Barcelona port, we re-packed, re-loaded, and set off to the port to meet the truck to take our bikes home. 

The Zona Franca in Barcelona port is big; very big.,in fact enormous  , and we did see quite a lot of it.  We were looking for Carrer Numero 6, past the huge vegetable and food wholesale market  ( one of  the biggest in Europe we were told).  We eventually found the Collbatalle warehouse, a big orange coloured building, where we waited until our truck to  pick up our bikes. After making sure our beloved bikes were safe and tucked up in the back of the truck we bid them a fond farewell we hailed two taxis who took us to the office where we collected the keys for our pre-booked apartment ( C. Rocafort, ).  After a quick wash, we had an excellent dinner, and then to bed. 
 
                        Tony relaxing on the train into Barcelona

Distance cycled:  76 km.
 
Elevation gain: 640 m.

Morning coffee: Castellbell.

Lunch: Abrera.

Stay: Apartment at  C.  Rocafort, Barcelona ( 2 nights).

Dinner: El Rebost de Maria, Gran Via de les Corts Catalans
 

Saturday 22, September 2012, day  7. 

Barcelona,  Parc de  Collserola 

After breakfast in a  smart cafe, we got  2 taxis to Terra  diversions on C.  Santa Tecla  (www.terradiversions.com).  We had pre-ordered our mountain bikes, which were ready and  waiting for us, and so too was our guide.  He took us out of Barcelona on bicycle routes and tracks, and we travelled in a north westerly direction up to  the Parc de la Fort del Racoto, which is at the terminus of one of the oldest tramlines in the city.  After a brief rest, we headed towards the Sergat Cor Tibidado,where the funicular also terminates. We were now in the Parc de Collserola, passing La  Rabassada.  The mountain biking was exhilarating.  We kept to the main tracks, some very steep, but great fun and tough enough. 

After a  taxi ride back to the apartment, we had a well-deserved lunch.  A metro trip to Sagrada Familia (Gaudi's Cathedral), where we had a look from the outside, and another cafe stop, followed by a walk back in the general direction of our hotel, via a  number of tapas bars, (  restaurants Divinus on Passiege de Gracia 28, was the best.  We sat at the counter  where we could see the behind-the-scenes preparation of the great  counter display of tapas).  We then attempted to walk back to the hotel, but got lost, and were tired, so we resorted to two taxis. Dinner was in a nearby café/restaurant, where the main entertainment was watching the televised  home game of Barcelona ( v Seville  ),  that started at 10 p.m. 

About to head off on our mountain biking experiance ,
We did'nt look so good on our return!!  
 

Distance mountain biking: 37.67 km

Elevation gain:  977 m

Lunch : pavement table , nondescript restaurant

Dinner :  tapas bars, and café restaurant.

 

 

 

My Summary  ( Dave|)
A great trip and a new experience for all of us with the touring bikes and panniers .First time we had used large plastic bike bags for air transport and "Chinese " bags for our panniers , both very successful . The standard of Hotels and meals we had on this trip were not as good as on previous trips , this was because most of the really good accommodation and eating places were closed and would not be opening again until the Winter Skiing months. The weather was fantastic 27 - 32 C most days . The good will of  the various Spanish people who helped us when we seemed to be a bit lost was exceptional , so much so that on our return we wrote a letter to the Spanish embassy in Dublin expressing our gratitude . One lesson we did learn was that we took far to much gear with us  .Washing cycling gear each night , getting it dry overnight and then re-wearing it the next day is the only future option.

.So whats next ?? I would guess that it will be touring bikes and lighter panniers again and taking the train into very busy cities .

For those who like statistics 

Distance cycled 504.38 km.

The time cycling, 31:25:13:: h:m:s

Elevation gain 6587 m.

Average speed, 16.1 km/hour



 
On Sunday morning, we were collected by taxi at 8.30 to bring us to Barcelona airport.  We arrived safely home for 1 p.m.

 

 

  A welcome stop , note the use of the back pannier as a clothes drier !! ,and notice the road we had just cycled up in the distance