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Saturday 12th September 2009
Very early rise for very early flight to Madrid .Five cyclists Jerome, Bernard, Tony,John P and John R plus our driver Pat . After the hassle of getting away from Madrid Airport we finally arrived two and a half hours later in Caceres, our starting point . This town is on the Via de la Plata, approximately one third of the way along the pilgrimage route from Seville to Santiago de Compostela, our final destination.
Sunday 13th
Only 167 Km today, destination Le Alberca , started out through sleepy villages ,are we on the right road?, Very quiet apart from some some motorcyclists , passed by many large ruins , coffee stop at Grimaldo where we consumed Bernard’s mothers fruit cake that was supposed to last the entire trip (sign for Santiago 648 Km.). Here we met two walking pilgrims each adorned by the “sign of the shell” neatly hanging from their necks. Later in the day cycled through hills where there had recently been many fires, the landscape was dead, black and rather scary.
Highlight of the day , fantastic climb from Las Mestas to El Portillo (1240 m) . Not for the faint hearted . This was the only climb on the whole trip that Jerome and John R didn’t finish and Bernard, John P and Tony didn’t start. Arrived at Hotel Donna Teresa after 9 pm, flattened and exhilerated at the same time . Revived by food and drink ,it was a long first day.
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Monday 14th
Destination Zamora, 146 Km. A very long straight road into a headwind , need to learn very quickly the rotation of the lead cyclist system .Lunch at Salamanca ,the cyclists found it easy to reach the town centre, unfortunately Pat in the van found it very difficult .Ordering lunch highlighted our complete lack of Spanish , the lucky two who ordered “pesce” did well but the four that ordered “carne”got pigs trotters which were fatty and inedible .New resolution John R assigned to bring Spanish dictionary to every future eating event , Terrain continues along the long straight road , wind hadn’t changed .Stayed at Pandora in Zamora , fantastic old monastic building .Resolution two , less of the “F” word in case it offended any Americans or English within earshot.
Tuesday 15th
Destination Puebla de Sanabria, 129 Km. Very quiet country roads through sleepy small villages such as Tabara where we passed women washing clothes in a community pool in the middle of the village. We also passed two council workers guiding a donkey and cart .Each man on his mobile phone no doubt telling their boss that they will be late for work due to unforeseen meeting with Irish cyclists . John R took a detour to the village of Valpaoriso (Inspired by the Irish Poem) Before dinner we took a trip into Puebla de Sanabria , a wonderful castle near the Plaza Mayor of the town which is situated on a hill with commanding views of the surrounding countryside .Jerome is now on a mission to purchase new tyre
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Wednesday 16th
Destination Verin, 94 Km . Cooler today , countryside becoming hillier and more like Ireland as we head into Galaria Fantastic 5 Km downhill into Verin. Parador Hotel is on the far side of town so we arrive just in time for a late lunch (3.45) then into town to buy yet another tyre for Jerome and stamps for John R ,the stamps being found for sale in a Tabac (don’t ask).Then off for a walk around the castle of Monterrei which is fantastic , and next to our hotel.
Thursday 17th
Destination Orense, 79 Km . Very cold start to the day .too hot going up hill too cold going down. Travelled on the N525 parallel to the M52 motorway ,countryside more varied. Had to negotiate a number of tunnels , not an enjoyable experience ,they were dark, damp and narrow and we were without any lights. We cycled very fast well aware of the damage being hit from behind could inflict, be it by a car , a truck or two council workers with a donkey . Orense is a big sprawling city , much more imposing than you would expect from the maps .We went straight to the Plaza Mayor for lunch then cycled some distance out of the city back to a new hotel built in the shape of a ship(sort of).Dinner in the restaurant San Miguel in the old town , fantastic !
Destination Zamora, 146 Km. A very long straight road into a headwind , need to learn very quickly the rotation of the lead cyclist system .Lunch at Salamanca ,the cyclists found it easy to reach the town centre, unfortunately Pat in the van found it very difficult .Ordering lunch highlighted our complete lack of Spanish , the lucky two who ordered “pesce” did well but the four that ordered “carne”got pigs trotters which were fatty and inedible .New resolution John R assigned to bring Spanish dictionary to every future eating event , Terrain continues along the long straight road , wind hadn’t changed .Stayed at Pandora in Zamora , fantastic old monastic building .Resolution two , less of the “F” word in case it offended any Americans or English within earshot.
Tuesday 15th
Destination Puebla de Sanabria, 129 Km. Very quiet country roads through sleepy small villages such as Tabara where we passed women washing clothes in a community pool in the middle of the village. We also passed two council workers guiding a donkey and cart .Each man on his mobile phone no doubt telling their boss that they will be late for work due to unforeseen meeting with Irish cyclists . John R took a detour to the village of Valpaoriso (Inspired by the Irish Poem) Before dinner we took a trip into Puebla de Sanabria , a wonderful castle near the Plaza Mayor of the town which is situated on a hill with commanding views of the surrounding countryside .Jerome is now on a mission to purchase new tyre
.
Wednesday 16th
Destination Verin, 94 Km . Cooler today , countryside becoming hillier and more like Ireland as we head into Galaria Fantastic 5 Km downhill into Verin. Parador Hotel is on the far side of town so we arrive just in time for a late lunch (3.45) then into town to buy yet another tyre for Jerome and stamps for John R ,the stamps being found for sale in a Tabac (don’t ask).Then off for a walk around the castle of Monterrei which is fantastic , and next to our hotel.
Thursday 17th
Destination Orense, 79 Km . Very cold start to the day .too hot going up hill too cold going down. Travelled on the N525 parallel to the M52 motorway ,countryside more varied. Had to negotiate a number of tunnels , not an enjoyable experience ,they were dark, damp and narrow and we were without any lights. We cycled very fast well aware of the damage being hit from behind could inflict, be it by a car , a truck or two council workers with a donkey . Orense is a big sprawling city , much more imposing than you would expect from the maps .We went straight to the Plaza Mayor for lunch then cycled some distance out of the city back to a new hotel built in the shape of a ship(sort of).Dinner in the restaurant San Miguel in the old town , fantastic !
Friday18th
Final destination Santiago de Compostela, 133Km. Took over an hour to find our way out of Orense then had a long steady up hill drag into the wind until we finally reached decent roads .Past many traditional Galacian grain stores on stilts. After “elevenses” in Cea , we took a detour to La Real de Oseire , a hugely impressive monastery in the middle of nowhere .Countryside very hilly and tough cycling . Lots of heather on the hill sides reminiscent of the Coolies. Lunch in Lalin , where first a very large bowl of soup, followed by a very large bowl of stew, just plonked in the middle of the table and we helped ourselves . Small break in Susana to take on board Oranginas and Coke for the final 10Km push into Santiago .We arrived triumphantly mid afternoon but this triumphalism was short lived due to a series of road works organised we thought by those two council workers and the donkey . Pat , alone and confused in the van , took ages to find our splendid hotel Monumento San Francisco . which was only a stones throw from the famous Cathedral. Excellent final supper in A Curtidoria as recommended by Bernard.
Saturday 19th
Bikes packed into boxes and boxes packed in van (sounds easier than it is).After breakfast, time for shopping or queuing patiently at the Pilgrim Office near the Cathedral, to get the Compostela, the traditional certificate which indicates that the pilgrimage was undertaken for motives of devotion and piety (‘pietatis causa’) . To get the Compostela one must show the appropriately stamped Pilgrim Passport ( credencial ) as proof of the journey, and pay 1 euro. Then all meet for the Pilgrims Mass in the Cathedral at noon , the highlight of which is the ritual of swinging of the botafumeiro across the nave of the cathedral. Then back to the airport home in Drogheda in time for tea .
Trip statistics Distance completed 750 Km
Punctures 2
Arguments 0
Donkeys 1
Final destination Santiago de Compostela, 133Km. Took over an hour to find our way out of Orense then had a long steady up hill drag into the wind until we finally reached decent roads .Past many traditional Galacian grain stores on stilts. After “elevenses” in Cea , we took a detour to La Real de Oseire , a hugely impressive monastery in the middle of nowhere .Countryside very hilly and tough cycling . Lots of heather on the hill sides reminiscent of the Coolies. Lunch in Lalin , where first a very large bowl of soup, followed by a very large bowl of stew, just plonked in the middle of the table and we helped ourselves . Small break in Susana to take on board Oranginas and Coke for the final 10Km push into Santiago .We arrived triumphantly mid afternoon but this triumphalism was short lived due to a series of road works organised we thought by those two council workers and the donkey . Pat , alone and confused in the van , took ages to find our splendid hotel Monumento San Francisco . which was only a stones throw from the famous Cathedral. Excellent final supper in A Curtidoria as recommended by Bernard.
Saturday 19th
Bikes packed into boxes and boxes packed in van (sounds easier than it is).After breakfast, time for shopping or queuing patiently at the Pilgrim Office near the Cathedral, to get the Compostela, the traditional certificate which indicates that the pilgrimage was undertaken for motives of devotion and piety (‘pietatis causa’) . To get the Compostela one must show the appropriately stamped Pilgrim Passport ( credencial ) as proof of the journey, and pay 1 euro. Then all meet for the Pilgrims Mass in the Cathedral at noon , the highlight of which is the ritual of swinging of the botafumeiro across the nave of the cathedral. Then back to the airport home in Drogheda in time for tea .
Trip statistics Distance completed 750 Km
Punctures 2
Arguments 0
Donkeys 1
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